Everything You Need to Know about The Algarve

Long ago, the British discovered Portugal's delights, from the mellow taste of port wine in northern Portugal to the natural beauty of the Algarve in southern Portugal. Over the years, this region has also attracted people from Northern and Central Europe seeking to escape cold climates. Travelers and expats from the U.S., Canada, Australia, and elsewhere are now flocking to it. But why?

The region is rich in every sense of the word. From the craggy cliffs and expansive views of Cape St. Vincent on the west coast to Tavira, sometimes called "Queen of the Algarve" because of its location 30 minutes from the Spanish border, the region boasts a wealth of natural beauty.

Visitors to the Algarve are drawn to its fine beaches, historical architecture, delicious seafood - such as the regional dish, cataplana - and affordable wines. In fact, in 2017, more than 7 million tourists chose it as a destination.

The smallest administrative division on mainland Portugal, the Algarve is bordered by the Alentejo region on the north, the Atlantic Ocean on the west and south, and Spain on the east. It encompasses 1,930 square miles and has 451,000 permanent residents.

The region is divided into 16 municipalities. (A note about terminology: designations can be confusing even for the Portuguese, so don’t worry about whether the names that follow are districts, cities, counties (concelhos), or towns. If you want to visit one—or all—of them, you’ll have no difficulty, as they are all well-known.)

Loulé, a traditional Portuguese market town, is the largest municipality with a population of 70,000. It’s followed by Faro (65,000), home to an international airport, Portimão (56,000) where you’ll find Praia de Rocha, a stunning beach backed by ochre-hued cliffs, and Albufeira (41,000), a former fishing village with a busy marina and active nightlife.

Smaller in population but not in desirability are Lagos (31,000), which also offers glorious beaches and lively bars and restaurants, Tavira (26,000), with a castle overlooking a seven-arched Roman bridge and no less than 37 churches, and Lagoa (23,000), home to the most productive winery in the Algarve.

Retire in the Algarve

Those who maintain an active lifestyle and are considering this region as a retirement location won't be bored. There is more to do than sunbathing despite 100 miles of Atlantic shoreline. The area offers golf, tennis, boating, horseback riding, hiking, and biking.

Discover Albufeira's Archeological Museum, which includes artifacts from the Stone Age through the Roman and Moorish eras to the 17th century.

From Portim*o, take a river cruise to Silves, the former Moorish capital of the Algarve, nestled in a hillside surrounded by lemon and orange groves.

Climb the ramparts of the castle and stroll cobbled streets. Look for the Great White Stork while you're up there too. Experience the sardine canning industry in Portim*o or take a spa treatment at Monchique.

Lifestyle in the Algarve

Climate and language are undoubtedly two factors to consider when choosing a new home overseas.

There are about 3,000 hours of sunshine per year in the Algarve. Summers in the Algarve are hot and dry, with daytime temperatures of around 87 F. In the spring and autumn, the temperature hovers around 60 F, while in the winter it hovers around 59 F. November through February are the months with the most rainfall.

There tends to be a small temperature difference despite the homogeneity of the climate. The Atlantic winds that buffet towering cliffs keep the air four or five degrees cooler in the west than in the east.

Is a beach with sand spits in protected coves more appealing to you or one with dramatic geological formations?tions?tions?tions?tions?tions?tions? The warmest water in the entire Algarve is said to be found in Monte Gordo, a sheltered bay near the Spanish border.

The language is generally English. You only need to "get by." If you wish to explore the Algarve's authentic, sparsely populated interior villages and savor the true flavor of the country, learn at least the basics.

Despite what you may have heard, learning Portuguese is not difficult. Attempting to speak the local language is a sign of respect. You'll be loved. And they'll probably want to practice their English.

Think about your preferred environment as well. You may prefer a bustling tourist town with many activities and English-speaking locals. (But avoid the months of July and August, which are peak tourist months.)

Maybe you prefer a quieter lifestyle. You can drive from west to east across the Algarve in less than two hours, and from north to south in about one and a half hours. As a result, you have access to shops and restaurants while still enjoying an idyllic retreat.

The following three suggestions represent a variety of what the Algarve has to offer.

Alpour

The traditional fishing village has maintained its charm despite its popularity with tourists and expats. It has lovely beaches, a small marina, and friendly locals. Enjoy Portuguese, Italian, Indian, or Chinese cuisine as you stroll the narrow streets filled with cafés and restaurants along the waterfront. Portim*o is a short cab ride across the bay from Lagos.

Olhão

The essence of Portugal is centered on the sea and seafood, so head to Olho, the Algarve's largest port, six miles east of Faro. Its vibrant waterfront fish market is still the town's main attraction, but its canning industry was famous in the late 19th century. It is not surprising that the old quarter has a Moorish character, with its whitewashed houses and narrow cobbled streets.

Vilamoura

You may need to dip your toe in the water metaphorically to discover authentic Portugal. Take a trip to Vilamoura.

Vilamoura was initially developed as a golfing destination in the 1980s. In addition to Praia da Falésia beach, this region features luxurious hotels, fine restaurants, and a large marina. Learn about the local culture on a day trip to Loulé.

Algarve Cost of Living

The affordability of property is a significant selling point, especially when compared to France, Italy, and Spain.

In the Algarve, the cost structure is fairly uniform. There are two-bedroom homes for sale for as much as $245,000 in Portimo, $295,000 in Albufeira, and $190,000 to $290,000 in Tavira. In these three cities, the rent for two-bedroom apartments ranged from $780 to $960, $480 to $1200, and $480 to $1200, respectively.

The following budget represents the cost of living in an Algarve coastal city for a couple. Rents in Porto are higher than in other parts of Portugal because the city is a popular tourist destination.

Portugal's appeal starts in the Algarve for most expats. Sagres, the craggy mountains to the west, and the low-lying Spanish border, to the east. Many of the world's best beaches can be found here. The coast is lined with golf courses, from easy to award-winning.

Local cuisine is served at restaurants in each town, and there is also a Michelin-starred restaurant in Albufeira called Vila Joya. In 2018, the region had seven Michelin-starred restaurants.

The architecture in the area shows the influence of the Moors between the eighth and thirteenth centuries. This name comes from the Moorish phrase al Gharb, which means "western cape." Historic towns are found in the area, such as the Roman ruins at Estoi outside Faro.

Locals are helpful and friendly.

Portuguese health care is very affordable, or even free, depending on where you live.

The hilly towns that surround the coast offer studio apartments and villas with panoramic views of the sea. Public transportation is easily accessible. Check out my favorite towns in the Algarve.

Lagos

Portuguese mornings are like waking up in an environment where everything has aligned perfectly.

Mike Sager is sitting in a British-style pub in the heart of Lagos on a sunny autumn afternoon. The pub is surrounded by souvenir shops and restaurants. In the adjacent plaza, there are buskers from the 1960s and 1970s. In a t-shirt, boardshorts, and flip-flops, he reclines in a chair and explains why Lagos has become his home.

This is my third year living here. My Portuguese is marginal, but most people speak English. Everyone here is friendly and helpful."

Lagos is a city in the western Algarve where the stunning rock formations of Ponta da Piedade and Lagos sands provide fun for beach lovers, whereas a variety of bars, cafés, and restaurants offer tasty food and drinks.

There is a Portuguese breakfast across from the marina for a couple of dollars with coffee and butter-dripping bread.

Summer temperatures in the Algarve range from 68 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit, while winter temperatures decrease by 20 degrees Fahrenheit.

In addition to clinics, the Hospital S. Gonçalo de Lagos also supplies inpatient and outpatient care, lab work, imaging, and surgical services at affordable rates.

Within 10 minutes of Lagos, in the hills nearby, white, terracotta-topped houses and bougainvillea-draped duplexes suggest a low-key suburban lifestyle.

Portimão

Portim*o, with a population of 55,000, is 35 minutes to the east. The atmosphere here is low-key compared to Lagos, more of a working-class Portuguese type of town, although I heard Dutch, German, and French. These latter activities add to the international flavor of this former shipbuilding and sardine-fishing hub. A vegetarian restaurant serving chickpea falafels and organic beer and wine was open around 7 p.m., a welcome alternative to the usual fish and meat options. The price of a starter, main course, and glass of wine for two at one of the street-side tables is a reasonable $25.

I walked to the Ribeirinha at sunset, where former jetties along the Arade River have been converted into a pleasant promenade leading to a spacious garden and fountain. Restaurants, pizza places, and ice cream parlors entice passersby. Portim*o's historic roots are reflected in the lighting on the bridge leading to Ferragudo, where I spent the night.

It is located within walking distance of one of the Algarve's most famous beaches, Praia da Rocha, although the resort is rather overbuilt. A modest health system and a lack of traditional charm make Portim*o an underwhelming city.

Portim*o is not a place I'd consider living in. If you are looking for an investment property, you may find success here. Three-bedroom houses in Portim*o, three miles from the beach, cost $226,700 or can be rented for $1,600 a month.

A week of rental in high season is equal to one month in off-season.

In addition to living near Matt Ashwell and Lena Roganovic, I also enjoy living near Alvor. They rent a nice, affordable apartment that takes up about half of their $1,700 monthly budget. "And we are surrounded by beaches, cliffs, and coves.

There are miles of wild, golden fields, sand dunes and the Monchique mountains on the horizon. We walk down to the harbor or along a boardwalk.

Lagos

Albufeira, the largest city in the Algarve, is another 30-minute drive east. It has around 15 miles of beaches.

It is a party town framed by cobbled streets, winding alleys, and Moorish-inspired architecture, with over 100 bars, cafés, and restaurants just in the old town alone. The main square, Jardim P*blico (Public Garden), is a shopper's paradise, with lovely boutiques selling arts and crafts, fine jewelry, pottery, and woolen goods.

During off-peak season (October to June), you can find a three-bedroom furnished apartment for about $900, plus utilities. You can even secure an eight-month contract. That is vital when applying for a four-month visa, since you must provide a signed lease.

For $1,120 a month, you can rent a two-bedroom apartment with 1,184 square feet and two communal saltwater pools.

Faro

Faro is the region’s largest city. It’s not without charm, but don’t come here if you’re looking for the quintessential Portuguese town or beach experience: There’s a city feel here, and it requires some work to access area beaches.

I parked my car near the impressive, ancient city walls. This place is full of history and it’s difficult to go very far without a reminder of its Roman and Moorish past, as well as references to the discoverers.

I toyed with the idea of taking a trip to Ria Formosa Natural Park to view sandbar islands, saltwater lagoons, and protected wildlife. Meanwhile, I opted for a dinner of salmon salad and beef carpaccio at The Moose (a grand total of $30).

In a prime location in Faro, a two-bedroom apartment with a large kitchen and free parking was for sale for $226,500.

Faro is perhaps not an ideal retirement location, but there are reasons to use it as a base for exploring the Algarve, one being its international airport.

Rentals cost a bit more in this city, as it is the commercial center of the Algarve. A four-bedroom apartment with luxury amenities costs around $1,700 a month. But you will be 15 minutes from the airport and have all the conveniences of a city.

Tavira

Continuing east, I came across Tavira, one of the prettiest towns I've ever seen. Whitewashed buildings, Roman ruins, and jacaranda and oleander blossoms can be found everywhere in the town, which is situated along the Gil*o River. Charming touches include latticework doors with knockers shaped like hands (a tradition passed on by the Moors).

I caught a ferry to Ilha Tavira, one of the finest beaches in the Algarve.

I was surprised to find not only cafés, but also a number of good restaurants. There were vendors selling handicrafts along the wooden boardwalk, which leads to a stretch of pristine sand.

The real estate market makes it impossible to find an affordable place to rent here. It is even harder to find a house under $200,000. If you're willing and able to spend more money, you might be better off with an urbanizaç*o, a designated community of apartment buildings around a small city.

The price for a two-bedroom villa in excellent condition in Mato Santo Espirito Urbanizaço, five minutes from Tavira, is $ 219,000. This corresponds to $1,850 per month in rent.